Chapter One STEPPING-STONE RECIPES * * * In this chapter, I present special recipes that showcase techniques that are very important for you to learn early on before progressing to the rest of the book. This chapter also includes helpful hints and suggestions and explains why certain procedures are done in a certain way. I feel that if you understand the whys you will be better able to master the bows. Stepping-stone recipes will help you assimilate basic techniques and move on to more complex recipes. The recipes build on one another--for example, first you learn how to make marinara, then ricotta and crêpes, and before you know it, you have the skills to turn out beautiful manicotti. Read the stepping-stone technique section for each recipe thoroughly before using it. Becoming proficient at these techniques will save you time in the kitchen, freeing you to be more creative. Marinara Sauce Stepping-Stone Technique As you proceed to make this very simple but exquisite sauce, you will be amazed at all you will learn. You will use many of these techniques over and over again. They might seem a bit difficult at first, but eventually they will become a part of you and you will not have to think about them again. Once you make this sauce and taste it, you will be hooked by its delicious fresh flavor. There will be no going back to buying marinara sauce in jars. I suggest you make the whole portion, although initially it might appear to be too much for you. It is not really that much more work; you use the same amount of utensils, and cleanup is the same. You will then have portions to freeze for those days that you just don't have enough time to cook. This is what organization and a well-stocked kitchen are all about. Get yourself ready by organizing yourself, your equipment, and your ingredients. For this recipe it makes a lot of sense to use a food processor or blender if you have one. It can grind the cheese for you, chop the garlic, and also chop the tomatoes once you have seeded them. Go from processing the dry ingredients first (cheese), to the semidry ingredients (garlic), and lastly to the wet ingredients (tomatoes). No need to clean your processor in between these steps. Save time, energy, and extra cleanup whenever possible. In this recipe, you'll use the following techniques: Grating Fresh Romano and Parmesan (Parmigiano-Reggiano) Cheese Cheese can be finely grated using a box grater or quickly and easily in the food processor. To do it in the food processor, chop the cheese by hand into 1-inch chunks, use the metal S-shaped blade, and with the motor on, drop the pieces through the feed tube. Cheese grated this way can be stored in the refrigerator for your weekly use. Chopping and Storing Garlic If you will be using a lot of garlic, I recommend chopping an entire head of garlic at once and storing what you don't use in the refrigerator. It takes about the same amount of time to chop a whole head of garlic as it does to chop a few cloves. Separate the cloves by placing the whole garlic bulb, root end facing up, onto the cutting board. Hit the garlic bulb with a kitchen mallet, or the flat side of a knife; then separate the cloves. Pound the individual cloves, making them easier to peel. Peel away the skins with the tip of a small knife. Trim the woody ends of each clove. Chopping garlic in the food processor takes no time at all. If you want the garlic to be uniformly minced, turn the motor on, and drop the cloves all at once through the feed tube. If you want it to be chopped in varying sizes, put all the cloves in the bowl of the food processor and pulse until the garlic is chopped to the desired consistency. Of course, you can always chop garlic by hand with a chef's knife. To store the garlic, place it in a small container and cover with extra-virgin olive oil along with a few drops of fresh lemon juice. (The juice retards bacterial growth.) It will keep for about a week in the refrigerator. Be aware, however, that the flavor intensifies the longer the garlic sits, so depending on your taste, you may wish to use a bit less than a recipe calls for. One-half teaspoon of chopped garlic is equal to about one clove . Selecting and Seeding Canned Tomatoes The quality of your sauce depends on selecting the best whole plum tomatoes possible. Whole plum Italian tomatoes are what you need; they have a firm, thick pulp with few seeds. There are many brands of canned whole Italian plum tomatoes on the market. You may want to try several brands. After you open them, look for firm meaty tomatoes that contain the fewest seeds possible. Since there are many varieties of canned tomatoes, let's be absolutely clear: Do not use the round ones, the diced ones, the chopped ones, or the stewed ones . It's very important to seed the tomatoes--tomato seeds impart a bitter taste to your sauce. To seed tomatoes, place the tomatoes with their juice in a large bowl. Holding a tomato with one hand, use the fingers of your other hand to open it, revealing the inside of the fruit. Pull out the inside core along with any fibrous pieces and the seeds. Dip the cleaned tomato into the juice; this will remove most of the remaining seeds. It is not necessary to be compulsive about this and get every single seed out, but remove as many as possible. Place the seeded tomatoes in another large bowl. I tell my children, husband, and students that this chore is more fun when shared, as it will go by quickly. Pour the leftover bits and pieces of tomato, cores, juice, and seeds through a food mill or strainer with small holes so the seeds will remain in the strainer. This juice and pulp also will be used in the sauce. We waste nothing! Using Nonreactive Pans Certain vegetables and ingredients react with the metal of the cooking pans to produce a chemical reaction, creating an unpleasant taste and destroying some of the nutritive value. For this recipe you need to choose pans that are nonreactive, such as stainless steel, titanium, enameled porcelain, or nonstick bonded cookware. Do not use aluminum, cast iron, or copper. This sauce must be made in large skillets rather than saucepots. Shallow skillets with sloping sides allow the juices to evaporate quickly. This helps the sauce to cook faster, giving it a fresher taste. This sauce would taste completely different if you cooked it in a saucepot. Preserving Fresh Basil to Be Used Throughout the Year When basil is in season and you have it in abundance, freeze it so you can use it all year round. If freezer space is at a premium, try making these basil "cigars." Remove the basil leaves from the stems. Wash the leaves and dry them completely with paper towels. Using small snack-size recloseable plastic bags, pack the leaves tightly into the bag, as many as will fit, pushing out as much air as possible, and roll the bag into a cigar shape. Close the bag. Make several cigars at once and store them in a larger recloseable plastic freezer bag for extra protection. The portion you need can be sliced as soon as you remove the cigar from the freezer, and the rest can be refrozen. Marinara Sauce Salsa Marinara Preparation Time: 30 minutes * Cooking Time: 1 1/2 hours 5 (28-ounce) cans whole Italian plum tomatoes and their juice 1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided 6 cloves garlic, minced (about 1 tablespoon) 12 leaves fresh basil, sliced (or 1 tablespoon Pesto, page 25), divided 1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper, or more to taste 1 teaspoon salt (if needed) 1 tablespoon sugar (if needed) PROCEDURE 1. Seed the tomatoes using the technique on page 3. 2. Coarsely chop the tomatoes using a knife, blender, or food processor, chopping about 2 cups at a time into 1/4-inch dice. If using a processor or blender, use the pulse mode. This gives you more control over the size of the pieces. You do not want to overprocess them. Pass the juice and any bits and pieces of tomato through a food mill using the disk with the smallest holes. Combine the chopped tomatoes and their sieved juice in a large bowl. 3. Because of the large quantity of sauce, you will need to use two large skillets. Make sure both skillets are placed on large burners. As you add each ingredient, divide it as evenly as possible between the two skillets. 4. Heat two large, nonreactive skillets on medium heat until warm. Add 2 tablespoons of the olive oil to each skillet and heat until oil is hot and you notice a slight ripple on the surface. Add the garlic and stir until it just turns golden, about 2 minutes. Be careful not to burn the garlic. 5. Next, add the tomatoes and their juice, half the basil, and the pepper. Cook uncovered on medium heat for 1 1/2 hours, stirring every 5 to 10 minutes so the sauce does not scorch on the bottom, if medium heat appears to be too high, turn it down to medium-low. The lower the heat, the longer the sauce will have to cook. 6. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil, 1 tablespoon to each skillet. Taste the sauce, and season with salt and pepper if desired. (Canned tomatoes may be packed in enough salt so that you won't need to add any.) If it has a little acidic flavor, add sugar, I teaspoon at a time, wait a few minutes, and taste again. Add more only if needed. 7. You will know the sauce is done when most of the juice has evaporated and the sauce is very thick. Test the sauce by dragging a spoon across the center of the pan. If no liquid seeps back into the center, it is done. Add the rest of the basil leaves at this time, to give the sauce extra-fresh flavor and color. Yield: 7 1/2 cups (2 cups will generously sauce 1 pound of pasta) NOTES One of the most perfect and simple dishes in the world is pasta with this marinara sauce! Stored in the refrigerator in covered containers, it will keep for 1 week. It freezes very well and will keep in the freezer for up to 6 months. Store in 1-cup portions. To defrost, place the sauce in the microwave in a microwavable, nonplastic container. (The plastic and the acid from the tomatoes do not react well together when heated in the microwave.) Cover loosely with plastic wrap and defrost. Alternatively, you can remove the sauce from the freezer the night before and defrost it overnight in the refrigerator. Heat the sauce until hot before combining it with hot, freshly cooked, drained pasta. Use This Recipe to Make: · Manicotti Made with Crêpes, page 44 · Breaded Chicken Cutlets, page 52 · Mussels in Spicy Marinara, page 88 · Pasta with Sausage, page 111 · Seafood Lasagna, page 112 · Rice Balls, page 93 · Ricotta Gnocchi, page 137 · Semolina Polenta with Broccoli, page 145 · Tomato-Basil Cream Sauce, page 127 · Soup with Kohlrabi, page 153 · Meatless "Cutlets," page 218 · Fish Stew, page 223 · Fried Green and Red Peppers, page 242 · Eggplant Sicilian Style, page 247 · Pizza, page 188 Homemade Fresh Ricotta Stepping-Stone Technique Ricotta is a soft curd fresh cheese made from pasteurized, homogenized cow, sheep, or goat milk. Ricotta is very light, creamy, and tasty. It has no preservatives and must be refrigerated. It will keep for up to 7 days. It is made throughout most of the regions of Italy and in various parts of the Mediterranean as well as in the U.S. Ricotta has always been very popular throughout Italy and recently is making a wonderful comeback in the United States. Many people think making your own ricotta is difficult, but once you make it for the first time you will see how truly simple and rewarding it is. Making ricotta involves only a few common ingredients. I suggest that you prepare it with whole milk unless you are on a special restricted diet. The cream in the milk gives it its wonderful flavor. My philosophy is to eat less, but enjoy the best possible taste. I do not use ricotta as a filler but to enhance the flavor of a dish. There are a few things to be on the alert for when making ricotta. To prevent scorching, you need to stir the milk about every 5 minutes, using a stainless-steel spatula. With this tool, you can scrape the entire bottom of the pan more efficiently. When you measure the vinegar, use a wet measuring cup, one made of glass or clear plastic that has a pouring spout. Place the measuring cup at eye level to make sure you have the exact amount. You will need an instant-read thermometer. I recommend the Taylor instant-read pocket thermometer; it is reliable, inexpensive, and compact. If you happen to make the mistake of overheating the milk, wait until it cools down a bit, checking the temperature. If curds did not form in good numbers or did not separate from the whey, the milk was probably not hot enough or you measured the vinegar improperly. If this happens, check the temperature and add more vinegar, 1 tablespoon at a time. You see, it's not that difficult. I use ricotta in many different recipes in this book, from savory to sweet, from main courses to desserts. Homemade Fresh Ricotta Ricotta Fresca Preparation Time: 5 minutes, plus 2 hours resting and 2 hours draining Cooking Time: 20-30 minutes 1 gallon whole pasteurized milk 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon distilled white vinegar PROCEDURE 1. Use a large, heavy-gauge stainless-steel saucepot. Wash it thoroughly with very hot water, but do not bother to dry it. (Leaving it wet helps prevent the milk from scorching.) Place the milk in the saucepot over medium heat. Add the salt and stir briefly. Allow the milk to heat up slowly, stirring occasionally with a metal spatula. When you notice tiny bubbles and steam forming on the surface of the milk, stir more frequently; don't let it scorch. You want it to reach 190°F, near scalding temperature, just before boiling. Check the temperature with your thermometer periodically. 2. When it reaches the correct temperature, turn the heat off, add the vinegar, and stir gently for ! minute. You will notice curds forming immediately. Take the pot off the stove. Cover with a dry, clean dish towel and allow the mixture to sit undisturbed for 2 hours. On cold days, you can prepare your ricotta in the morning before going to work and let it sit until you come home. 3. When the ricotta has rested for 2 or more hours, take a piece of cheesecloth, dampen it with water, and lay it out inside a colander. With a slotted spoon or sieve, ladle out the ricotta into the prepared colander. Place the colander with the ricotta inside a larger pan or bowl so it can drain freely. Let it drain for 2 hours or longer. 4. Store the cheese in a covered container in the refrigerator. Yield: 4 cups (about 2 pounds) NOTES Ricotta will keep in the refrigerator for up to 7 days. I do not recommend freezing, because when frozen it loses some of its textural qualities. Use low-fat or part-skim milk in making ricotta only if you have dietary restrictions. The flavor comes from the cream in the whole milk. Use This Recipe to Make: · Manicotti made with Crêpes, page 44 · Cannelloni Stuffed with Spinach and Ricotta, page 114 · Tortelloni with Mushroom Sauce, page 119 · Ricotta Gnocchi, page 137 · Stuffed Bread with Spinach and Olives, page 183 · Lemon Ricotta Drop Cookies, page 260 · Ricotta Puffs, page 270 · Cream Puffs, page 272 · Cannoli, page 274 · Graziella's Decadent Cake, page 284 · Ricotta Cloud Cream, page 271 MARINATED EGGPLANT Stepping-Stone Technique Peeling and Debittering Eggplant If the recipe calls for peeling the eggplant, do so just before using--the flesh discolors quickly! Remove both ends first, then peel with a vegetable peeler or sharp paring knife. Eggplant that are not in season or those that have been stored for a long time may be bitter. To be on the safe side, use the following technique to help remove some of the bitter juices. Sprinkle eggplant generously with salt and place in a large colander or bowl. After 1/2 to 1 hour, rinse, drain, and pat dry with paper towels. When eggplant are in season and grown locally, it is usually not necessary to debitter them. Keeping Eggplant Submerged When boiling vegetables such as eggplant or mushrooms that tend to float on the surface of the water, keep them submerged by placing a colander or strainer directly over the surface of the ingredient. The weight of the colander will help in keeping them submerged. Squeezing Out Excess Water from Eggplant The more water that is left in the eggplant, the less marinade it will be able to absorb and the less flavorful it will be. To squeeze excess water from eggplant or other cooked vegetables such as spinach, place the cooked, drained vegetables on a dinner plate. Place another identical plate on top and press the two plates together, holding the plates vertically over the sink to allow any extra water to drain out. Marinated Eggplant with Garlic and Olive Oil Melanzane Sott 'Olio, Aglio e Aceto Preparation Time: 10 minutes, plus 30 minutes to 1 hour for debittering, if necessary Cooking Time: 2 to 3 minutes Marinated eggplant is excellent to have on hand, stored in the refrigerator for use in many ways. It makes a great gift from your kitchen as well! 2 medium eggplants 2 teaspoons salt (plus more if debittering eggplants) 1 quart water 2 cups white distilled vinegar For the Marinade: 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil (more if needed) 3 cloves garlic, chopped or slivered (about 1/2 tablespoon) 20 fresh basil leaves 1/2 teaspoon red pepper flakes 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 2 teaspoons dried oregano, rubbed between your hands to release its flavor PROCEDURE 1. Remove the cap and stem ends from eggplants. Peel them with a vegetable peeler and slice into 1/4- to 1/3-inch rounds. Lay the eggplant slices on a work surface, sprinkle with salt, place in a large colander, and let drain for 1/2 to 1 hour. Rinse, drain, and pat dry with paper towels. 2. In a large nonreactive saucepot, bring water, vinegar, and salt to a boil. Add the eggplant. With a wooden spoon, make sure that the eggplant slices are submerged in the liquid. Bring back to a boil and cook for only 2 minutes. (Use a timer to make sure you do not overcook.) 3. Drain the eggplant, run under cold water to stop the cooking process, and drain again. When the slices are cool, gently press out any extra water. Place the eggplant in a large bowl. 4. In a medium bowl, mix the olive oil, garlic, basil, red pepper flakes, black pepper, and oregano. Stir well. Add the eggplant to the marinade and toss, using your hands to evenly distribute the marinade throughout. Taste for seasonings and adjust accordingly. 5. Wash the canning jars and lids in the dishwasher or sterilize in a large pan of water. 6. Stack the slices in the prepared jars. Pour any leftover marinade over the top. The eggplant should always be completely submerged in olive oil, with at least 1/2 inch of oil above it. Add extra olive oil if needed. Screw the lids on the jars tightly and refrigerate. Yield: I quart NOTES When ready to use, take the eggplant out of the refrigerator 15 to 30 minutes before serving. This will allow the oil that might have congealed in the refrigerator to return to its original liquid state. Also, herbs and spices always taste best at room temperature. Store eggplant in the refrigerator in tightly sealed containers. Marinated eggplant will keep in the refrigerator for 1 month or longer. I do not recommend freezing. Use This Recipe to Make: · An antipasto · Spreads for bruschetta · Sandwiches for lunch · Frittata, page 34 Marinated Mushrooms Funghi Marinati Preparation Time: 10 minutes · Cooking Time: 1 minute Mushrooms preserved in this manner are great to have on hand in the refrigerator. They have a multitude of uses and will liven up many a dish. 2 cups white distilled vinegar 4 cups water 2 teaspoons salt 2 pounds mushrooms, cleaned with a damp paper towel and sliced 1/4 inch thick, quartered, or leave whole if they are small For the Marinade: 1 1/2 teaspoons minced garlic 1 1/2 teaspoons dried oregano 10 fresh basil leaves 1 cup extra-virgin olive oil (more if needed) 1/2 teaspoon salt 1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1/4 teaspoon red pepper flakes PROCEDURE 1. Place a medium nonreactive saucepot on high heat. Add the vinegar and water. Bring to a boil, add the salt and mushrooms, and boil for 1 minute. Drain very well; the less moisture, the better the flavor. 2. Mix all marinade ingredients in a bowl. Add the mushrooms and toss well. 3. Wash a quart-size jar with very hot, sudsy water. Rinse and drain. 4. Fill the jar with mushrooms and marinade. Make sure that the mushrooms are completely submerged in oil, with at least 1/2 inch of oil above them. Add more extra-virgin olive oil if necessary. Yield: 1 quart NOTE Store these mushrooms in a tightly sealed container in the refrigerator; they will keep for over a month and can be used in sandwiches, for antipasti trays, in green salads, on crusty bread or crostini, or in sauces, soups, and stuffings.
