Excerpt Caramelized Onion Pizza (Pissaladière) "California-Style Pizza Dough" 1/4 cup olive oil 3 pounds yellow or white onions, thinly sliced 1 tablespoon minced garlic 1 tablespoon minced fresh marjoram, or 1 teaspoon crumbled dried marjoram 1 tablespoon minced fresh thyme, or 1 teaspoon crumbled dried thyme 1-1/2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary, or 1/2 teaspoon crumbed dried rosemary Salt Freshly ground black pepper Vegetable oil or cooking spray for greasing pizza screen or ventilated pizza pan (if using) Cornmeal for sprinkling pizza peel (if using) Extra-virgin olive oil for brushing crust 12 flat anchovy fillets 1 cup drained, pitted Niçoise olives or other flavorful olives (see recipe introduction) 1 tablespoon drained small capers 1-1/2 tablespoons pine nuts 1/2 small lemon, sliced paper-thin, then each slice cut into 4 wedges (optional) Minced fresh flat-leaf parsley for garnish Traditionally, the crust for this specialty of Nice is formed into a rectangle. The addition of lemon is an idea that I gleaned from Absinthe Brasserie in San Francisco. It gives the caramelized onion topping an appealing piquancy. For good caramelization, choose onions that are somewhat dry. Freshly picked onions contain a lot of water, which makes them fall apart before they achieve good color.The name for this pizza comes for the French pissala, a classic condiment made from anchovies and olives, two of the major elements in this pie. The olives of choice for this preparation are imported brine-cured purplish Niçoise olives packed with herbs in olive oil from Provence. Alternate choices include black wrinkled dry-cured olives from Italy or flavorful brine-cured olives from other Mediterranean countries or California. Avoid the bland canned "ripe" olives on supermarket shelves. In France the olives are left unpitted, which look great atop a pissaladière, but I prefer offering it with pitted olives. Make the pizza dough and set aside to rise. In a large, heavy pan, heat the 1/4 cup olive oil over medium heat. Add the onions and garlic and toss well to coat with the oil. Stir in the marjoram, thyme, and rosemary and sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Cover, reduce the heat to medium-low, and cook, stirring occasionally, until the onions are soft and lightly colored, about 30 minutes. Uncover, increase the heat to medium, and cook, stirring frequently, until the onions are very tender and well caramelized, 25 minutes or longer, depending on the moisture content of the onions. Remove form the heat and set aside to cool to room temperature. About 30 minutes before baking the pizza, preheat the oven to 500 degrees F. If using a pizza screen or ventilated pan, brush it with vegetable oil or coat with spray and set aside. If baking directly on a stone or tiles, sprinkle a pizza peel with cornmeal and set aside. On a lightly floured surface, roll out or stretch the dough into a large rectangle or other shape as desired. Place the dough on the prepared screen, pan, or peel. Brush the dough all over with olive oil, then top with the caramelized onions, leaving an 1/2-inch border around the edges. Arrange the anchovy fillets on top and then scatter the olives, capers, pine nuts, and lemon wedges (if using) over the onions. If using a pizza peel, give it a quick, short jerk to be sure that the bottom of the crust has not stuck to it. Transfer the pizza to the preheated oven and bake until the crust is golden, about 10 minutes. Remove the pizza to a wire rack and let stand for about 2 minutes, then transfer to a cutting tray or board and lightly brush the edges of the crust with olive oil. Sprinkle with parsley. Slice and serve immediately. Makes 8 servings Artichoke and Goat Cheese Pizza "California-Style Pizza Dough" Vegetable oil or cooking spray for greasing pizza screen or ventilated pizza pan (if using)Cornmeal for sprinkling pizza peel (if using)Extra-virgin olive oil for brushing crust and drizzling over toppings 3 cups crumbled fresh mild goat cheese (about 12 ounces) 2 jars (6-1/2 ounces each) ] high-quality marinated artichoke hearts, well drained and thinly sliced 1/2 cup chopped walnuts (optional) 1/4 cup freshly gratedParmesan cheese (about 1 ounce), preferably Parmigiano-Reggiano 2 tablespoons chopped fresh chervil or flat-leaf parsley This recipe was created at the request of Mary Whitney. My partner, Andrew, gives lessons to Mary in his downstairs music studio, and her beautiful operatic soprano voice often wafts through my kitchen when I'm cooking. My dishes always seem to taste batter when made to such glorious musical accompaniment. Make the pizza dough and set aside to rise. About 30 minutes before baking the pizza, preheat the oven to 500 degrees F. If using a pizza screen or ventilated pan, brush it with vegetable oil or coat with spray and set aside. If baking directly on a stone or tiles, sprinkle a pizza peel with cornmeal and set aside. On a lightly floured surface, roll out or stretch the dough and shape it as desired. Place the dough on the prepared screen, pan, or peel. Brush the dough all over with olive oil, then top with the goat cheese, leaving a 1/2-inch border around the edges. Distribute the artichoke slices and walnuts (if using) over the cheese and drizzle with olive oil. If using a pizza peel, give it a quick, short jerk to be sure that the bottom of the crust has not stuck to it. Transfer the pizza to the preheated oven and bake until the crust is golden, about 10 minutes. Remove the pizza to a wire rack and let stand for about 2 minutes, then transfer to a cutting tray or board and lightly brush the edges of the crust with olive oil. Sprinkle with the Parmesan cheese and chervil or parsley. Slice and serve immediately. Makes 8 servings Yogurt Marinade 1 cup plain yogurt 2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lime juice 2 tablespoons grated or minced fresh ginger 2 tablespoons minced garlic 1 tablespoon ground paprika 2 teaspoons ground garam masala (available in Indian markets) 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon ground cayenne Red and yellow food coloring (optional; see recipe introduction) 1-1/2 pounds boned and skinned chicken breast halves or thighs (about 4 breast halves or 8 thighs) "California-Style Pizza Dough" Vegetable oil or cooking spray for greasing pizza screen or ventilated pizza pan (if using)Cornmeal for sprinkling pizza peel (if using) Asian sesame oil or hot chile oil for brushing crust 3 cups freshly shredded Monterey Jack cheese (about 9 ounces) 1/2 cup sliced green onion, including green tops Mango chutney for serving (a favorite recipe or high-quality commercial product) India meets Italy or, more accurately, California, in this delightful combination. The pizza crust resembles nan (naan), the India bread cooked in the intense heat of tandoor ovens. Food coloring will give this spiced roasted chicken the traditional orange-red color of tandoor-cooked foods. A British-style mango chutney spread on the pizza adds some sweet relief to the spicy chicken. To make the Yogurt Marinade, in a nonreactive (glass, ceramic, or stainless steel) bowl, combine the yogurt, lime juice, ginger, garlic, paprika, garam masala, salt, and cayenne and blend well. If desired, gradually blend in enough red and yellow food coloring to achieve a deep orange-red. Rinse the chicken under cold running water, pat dry with paper toweling, and add it to the marinade. Turn to coat well. Cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or for up to overnight; return the chicken to room temperature before cooking. Make the "California-Style Pizza Dough" and set aside to rise. Position a rack in the middle of the oven for roasting the chicken, and preheat the oven to 500 degrees F. Place the chicken on a rack set in a shallow roasting pan. Transfer to the preheated oven and roast until the chicken is tender and just opaque when cut into at the thickest part with a small, sharp knife, about 10 minutes for breasts or about 20 minutes for thighs. Remove the pan from the oven and set aside to cool. As soon as the chicken is cool enough to handle, chop the meat into small bite-sized pieces and transfer to a bowl. Setaside to cool to room temperature, then cover and refrigerate until needed; return to room temperature before adding to the pizza. About 30 minutes before baking the pizza, preheat the oven to 500 degrees F. If using a pizza screen or ventilated pan, brush it with vegetable oil or coat with spray and set aside. If baking directly on a stone or tiles, sprinkle a pizza peel with cornmeal and set aside. On a lightly floured surface, roll out or stretch the dough and shape it as desired. Place the dough on the prepared screen, pan, or peel. Brush the dough all over with sesame or hot chile oil, then top with the cheese, leaving a 1/2-inch border around the edges. Distribute the chicken over the cheese and sprinkle with the green onion. If using a pizza peel, give it a quick, short jerk to be sure that the bottom of the crust has not stuck to it. Transfer the pizza to the preheated oven and bake until the crust is golden, about 10 minutes. Remove the pizza to a wire rack and let stand for bout 2 minutes, then transfer to a cutting tray to board and lightly brush the edges of the crust with sesame or hot chile oil. Slick and serve immediately. Pass the chutney at the table for spooning over the pizza. Makes 8 servings Copyright © 2000 James McNair and Joyce Oudkerk Pool. All rights reserved.
